To install laminate wood floors, mark a reference point for the flooring, do a dry layout, apply the glue with a trowel, and install the flooring with a tongue-and-groove system. Use a rubber mallet and spacers to get laminate wood flooring in place with instructions from a home repair specialist in this free video on laminate wood floors.
Roofing Choices
As with most homebuilding products, you have many options in roofing and siding. The choices you make not only affect the style and appearance of your home, but also determine its maintenance needs over time. Installation methods also play a big part in the service life of roofing and siding materials.
While traditionalists are likely to prefer such natural roofing materials as cedar shingles and slate, it’s also worth considering some of the newer, lower maintenance (and sometimes lower-cost) alternatives. Asphalt roofing shingles are available in a wide variety of colors, patterns and weights—some resembling natural wood roofing from a distance. Premium asphalt shingles can last as long as 30 years or more, so their higher price can actually be a bargain when compared to standard asphalt shingles, which last only 15 to 20 years.
Depending on the geographical region and the architectural style of your home, you might also consider clay-tile roofing, lighter weight aluminum, fiberglass and composition roof-tile designs. Slate-like roofing made of concrete and polymers is another option, as is metal roofing.
Among siding materials, a host of newer products emulate traditional materials. Affordable, low maintenance vinyl sidings are now available with embossed wood-grain patterns. Aluminum panels simulate individual wood shingles. And there are many interesting options among genuine and imitation stone veneers, and, of course, brick veneer. EIFS, stucco-like coatings applied over insulating foam, offer yet another alternative.
Roofing Basics
The effectiveness and durability of most roofs, however, depend largely upon proper installation of the underlayment, flashing, and ventilation, as well as the finish roofing material. Roofing underlayment acts as a safety net between the roofing material and the bare roof deck. It also protects the roof sheathing during construction. Underlayment comes in several thicknesses and weights, with 15-pound asphalt-impregnated felt the most common choice. Generally, the steeper the roof, the lower the acceptable grade of underlayment. On more troublesome shallow-slope roofs, underlayment often takes a beating. Your contractor must glue both the overlapping paper edges together and the paper to the roof deck using roofing cement, a thick, semi-liquid, petroleum-based product.
Relatively new to residential construction, rubberized asphalt membranes offer a no-mess alternative to roof cement. They are extremely effective at preventing water damage from ice dams, and these self-adhesive membranes work even on low-slope roofs.
Roofing Materials
Each roofing material offers its own advantages and disadvantages. In some cases, your options may be limited by the load-bearing strength of the roof frame, the roof pitch and the architectural style of the house. Here’s a listing of the most commonly used roofing materials and some important points regarding proper installation.
Roll Roofing Most often used on low-slope roofs and on outbuildings, mineral-surfaced roll roofing is inexpensive and easy to install. The material comes in 3-foot-wide rolls and is made of an asphalt-impregnated mat densely covered with mineral particles in black, grey or white. To avoid rippling or cracking, the product should be installed only during warm weather. Look for a metal drip edge, as well as asphalt cement at the roof perimeter and at every overlap.
Asphalt Shingles They are suitable for virtually any roof with a slope of 3-in-12 (3-inch drop in height for every 12 horizontal inches) or greater; standard asphalt shingles can also be used on 2-in-12 slopes with waterproofing underlayment.
Heavier-weight, thicker shingles last longer than lighter, thinner ones. Dark-colored shingles get hotter than light-colored ones. Excessive heat tends to shorten shingle life. Long-lived, premium –grade asphalt shingles can cost up to twice as much as the standard grade, but the best asphalt shingles come with a 30-year warranty.
Case studies suggest that shingles should be nailed to the roof deck (not stapled) with the exact number of nails specified by the manufacturer. Using too few nails or installation on roofs with inadequate ventilation may void your shingle warranty.
Clay and Concrete Tile Clay-tile roofs often last 100 years or more; modern concrete-based products make similar claims. But a single square (100 square feet) of clay tile can weigh 1,000 pounds or more. Therefore, the roof frame must be considerably stronger than for asphalt, wood or metal roofing. If you choose tile roofing, talk to your builder about using a premium rubberized underlayment; often, underlayment and flashing fail many years before tiles.
Metal Roofing Along with popular pre-painted standing-seam panels, new metal roofing products are available in designs suggesting wood shakes, slate or clay tile. Installing any metal roof requires a skilled crew because most metal systems use proprietary components for flashing, edging and ridge caps. Metal roof failures typically result from improper installation, such as too few fasteners or failure to apply the recommended caulking between panels. Edges of all cut metal pieces should be resealed at the job site.
Wood Shakes Although banned in some parts of the fire-prone southwest, wood shake roofs provide good service for many years. Covering the entire roof deck with rubberized underlayment should ensure increased longevity.
Flashing
Flashing refers to the material that shields and directs water away from the roof’s problem areas—eaves, chimneys, vent stacks and valleys (where one roof plane intersects with another). Flashing materials may be copper, aluminum, stainless steel or 90-pound roll roofing. Many of the most common leakage problems in new homes can be attributed to incorrect (or missing) flashing.
Drip Edge At the eaves and edges of every roof, a piece of metal drip edge guides water away from fascia boards and prevents it from creeping beneath underlayment.
Valley Flashing The point where roofs intersect should be protected with flashing that extends horizontally several inches up each slope, away from the point of intersection.
Step Flashing Where a sloped roof intersects with a vertical plane, such as the side of a house or a chimney wall, small pieces of step flashing provide the necessary water-proof transition.
Chimney Flashing Good chimney flashing is set in a groove etched into the mortar between rows of bricks. The metal actually penetrates the brick, forming a permanent watertight seal.
While traditionalists are likely to prefer such natural roofing materials as cedar shingles and slate, it’s also worth considering some of the newer, lower maintenance (and sometimes lower-cost) alternatives. Asphalt roofing shingles are available in a wide variety of colors, patterns and weights—some resembling natural wood roofing from a distance. Premium asphalt shingles can last as long as 30 years or more, so their higher price can actually be a bargain when compared to standard asphalt shingles, which last only 15 to 20 years.
Depending on the geographical region and the architectural style of your home, you might also consider clay-tile roofing, lighter weight aluminum, fiberglass and composition roof-tile designs. Slate-like roofing made of concrete and polymers is another option, as is metal roofing.
Among siding materials, a host of newer products emulate traditional materials. Affordable, low maintenance vinyl sidings are now available with embossed wood-grain patterns. Aluminum panels simulate individual wood shingles. And there are many interesting options among genuine and imitation stone veneers, and, of course, brick veneer. EIFS, stucco-like coatings applied over insulating foam, offer yet another alternative.
Roofing Basics
The effectiveness and durability of most roofs, however, depend largely upon proper installation of the underlayment, flashing, and ventilation, as well as the finish roofing material. Roofing underlayment acts as a safety net between the roofing material and the bare roof deck. It also protects the roof sheathing during construction. Underlayment comes in several thicknesses and weights, with 15-pound asphalt-impregnated felt the most common choice. Generally, the steeper the roof, the lower the acceptable grade of underlayment. On more troublesome shallow-slope roofs, underlayment often takes a beating. Your contractor must glue both the overlapping paper edges together and the paper to the roof deck using roofing cement, a thick, semi-liquid, petroleum-based product.
Relatively new to residential construction, rubberized asphalt membranes offer a no-mess alternative to roof cement. They are extremely effective at preventing water damage from ice dams, and these self-adhesive membranes work even on low-slope roofs.
Roofing Materials
Each roofing material offers its own advantages and disadvantages. In some cases, your options may be limited by the load-bearing strength of the roof frame, the roof pitch and the architectural style of the house. Here’s a listing of the most commonly used roofing materials and some important points regarding proper installation.
Roll Roofing Most often used on low-slope roofs and on outbuildings, mineral-surfaced roll roofing is inexpensive and easy to install. The material comes in 3-foot-wide rolls and is made of an asphalt-impregnated mat densely covered with mineral particles in black, grey or white. To avoid rippling or cracking, the product should be installed only during warm weather. Look for a metal drip edge, as well as asphalt cement at the roof perimeter and at every overlap.
Asphalt Shingles They are suitable for virtually any roof with a slope of 3-in-12 (3-inch drop in height for every 12 horizontal inches) or greater; standard asphalt shingles can also be used on 2-in-12 slopes with waterproofing underlayment.
Heavier-weight, thicker shingles last longer than lighter, thinner ones. Dark-colored shingles get hotter than light-colored ones. Excessive heat tends to shorten shingle life. Long-lived, premium –grade asphalt shingles can cost up to twice as much as the standard grade, but the best asphalt shingles come with a 30-year warranty.
Case studies suggest that shingles should be nailed to the roof deck (not stapled) with the exact number of nails specified by the manufacturer. Using too few nails or installation on roofs with inadequate ventilation may void your shingle warranty.
Clay and Concrete Tile Clay-tile roofs often last 100 years or more; modern concrete-based products make similar claims. But a single square (100 square feet) of clay tile can weigh 1,000 pounds or more. Therefore, the roof frame must be considerably stronger than for asphalt, wood or metal roofing. If you choose tile roofing, talk to your builder about using a premium rubberized underlayment; often, underlayment and flashing fail many years before tiles.
Metal Roofing Along with popular pre-painted standing-seam panels, new metal roofing products are available in designs suggesting wood shakes, slate or clay tile. Installing any metal roof requires a skilled crew because most metal systems use proprietary components for flashing, edging and ridge caps. Metal roof failures typically result from improper installation, such as too few fasteners or failure to apply the recommended caulking between panels. Edges of all cut metal pieces should be resealed at the job site.
Wood Shakes Although banned in some parts of the fire-prone southwest, wood shake roofs provide good service for many years. Covering the entire roof deck with rubberized underlayment should ensure increased longevity.
Flashing
Flashing refers to the material that shields and directs water away from the roof’s problem areas—eaves, chimneys, vent stacks and valleys (where one roof plane intersects with another). Flashing materials may be copper, aluminum, stainless steel or 90-pound roll roofing. Many of the most common leakage problems in new homes can be attributed to incorrect (or missing) flashing.
Drip Edge At the eaves and edges of every roof, a piece of metal drip edge guides water away from fascia boards and prevents it from creeping beneath underlayment.
Valley Flashing The point where roofs intersect should be protected with flashing that extends horizontally several inches up each slope, away from the point of intersection.
Step Flashing Where a sloped roof intersects with a vertical plane, such as the side of a house or a chimney wall, small pieces of step flashing provide the necessary water-proof transition.
Chimney Flashing Good chimney flashing is set in a groove etched into the mortar between rows of bricks. The metal actually penetrates the brick, forming a permanent watertight seal.
